Organic cotton and reusable bags are steps toward the greening of the fashion industry, but some 29 top-tier designers have agreed to participate in the U.S. Natural Resources Defense Council's (NRDC) Clean by Design program, which will teach them how to integrate greener practices into many aspects of their businesses, from raw materials, fabric finishing and production, to packaging, recycling and shipping.

Taiwanese American designer Jason Wu is interested in tackling the dyeing process: "The information I want for myself from this is: What dyes should we use? What does 'naturally dyed' mean? Is it better for the environment? If it's using thousands of insects that are part of the ecosystem to create the dyes, is that better? I really don't know."

Many of the designers seem knowledgeable about the problems — and even potential solutions — said Linda Greer, a director for the NRDC, but they don't know how to get from here to there.

Shoppers have to be trained, too, so they'll want the new products and be willing, in all likelihood, to pay a little more. Nothing gets businesses to change their practices faster than consumer pressure, she added.

Consumers demanded environmentally friendly options in beauty and food products — and now those industries are farther ahead in green practices than fashion, noted Greer.

"We hope consumers and designers become synchronized in their messages. We want people to buy the next wave of green products because they're good, because they're chic and fashionable, and, oh yeah, because they're green," she stated.

The more brands involved — from the big to the small — the better it will be, Greer explained, because they are hoping to examine the making of a garment start to finish.

She ticks off potential jumping-off points: rail freight and ocean shipping containers instead of airplanes; fabrics that can be machine-washed in cold water instead of hot water (or instead of being dry cleaned).

These aren't quick and easy fixes and will require more of a commitment, including a financial one, to adopt, but once things start changing, Greer hopes the movement will be sustainable — after all, the industry's ability to think out of the box is what's needed most, because some solutions aren't developed yet.

The industry, while competitive, also knows how to come together for a cause, pointed out Tommy Hilfiger, noting the company's fundraising history for breast cancer and AIDS charities. The environment is next on the radar, he stated.

"It's part of being a good global citizen," Hilfiger concluded, "and fashion is a global business. If we can all get together, all of us, I think we have enough influence."

 

伸展台綠化

 

雖然使用有機棉與可重複使用的袋子都是時尚產業邁向綠化的步驟,不過廿九位頂尖設計師已經同意參與美國自然資源保護會(NRDC)的設計創造潔淨計劃。該計劃將指導各大設計師如何將環保融入企業的多個層面,這當中包括原物料、布料加工與生產、包裝、回收以及運送。

台裔美籍設計師吳季剛對染色過程十分感興趣,他表示:「我想得知的相關資訊是:我們該使用什麼染料?何謂『自然染?』這對環境比較好嗎?如果染料是來自屬於生態系一環的上千隻昆蟲,那會比較好嗎?我對這一切實在不瞭解。」

NRDC 的一位主任琳達葛瑞兒表示,許多設計師似乎十分瞭解這些問題—甚至知道潛在的解決方式,但他們不清楚該如何確實辦到。

消費者也必須接受訓練,如此一來他們才會想要新產品,並且有極大的意願為此多付一點錢。葛瑞兒補充,來自消費者的壓力最能讓業者改變做法。

葛瑞兒指出,消費者要求環保的美妝產品與食品—因此這些產業追求綠化的腳步比時尚業快。

她表示:「我們希望消費者與設計師能夠同調,也希望人們能購買下一波的環保產品,因為它們品質好、別緻、時尚,而且環保。」

她解釋,愈多品牌加入—不管是大小品牌—效果就愈好,因為 NRDC 希望他們能檢視一件衣服從頭到尾的製作過程。

她提到幾項能率先嘗試的做法:選擇鐵路貨櫃與海洋貨櫃,而非飛機;利用能以洗衣機進行冷洗的布料,而非得用熱水(或乾洗)。

然而這些並非一蹴可幾且容易達到的解決之道,許多心力必須投入,包括財務上的調整。不過一旦開始出現轉變,葛瑞兒希望改變能夠永遠持續下去—畢竟時尚業有的就是能跳脫舊思維的能力,因為有些解決辦法尚未出現。

湯米席爾菲格表示,時尚業雖然競爭,但也懂得為了某個目標團結一致。他並指出該公司長久以來一直為乳癌與愛滋病慈善機構募款。他指出,環境是我們關心的下一個議題。

席爾菲格總結道:「這是作為地球村好市民的責任。時尚是全球產業,如果所有人能齊聚一堂,我想我們會帶來十足的影響力。」

http://www.chinapost.com.tw/guidepost/topics/default.asp?id=2538&sub=2

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